BMW E30

Shift linkage rebuilding

By: Alan Alfano 

The BMW E30 used one of two designs to hold the shift lever.

Before 6/86, they used a sheet metal console.
After 6/86, they used an aluminum control arm.

Recommendation for 6/86+ E30's (aluminum control arm)
This design is still used on current manual transmission BMW's.

Shifter parts breakdown:
http://www.mz3.net/articles/images/143-sshiftz19.jpg

There are many aftermarket shift levers to consider.
This technique will recommend a shift lever from another BMW model. A BMW lever will not create the driveline vibration problem that many aftermarket levers introduce.
Vibration problems occur whenever there is ANY metal to metal contact in the design. Aftermarket designs often have a bronze bushing or roller bearing on the shift lever (BMW uses a hard plastic). Any metal to metal contact will create a buzzzzzzz in the passenger compartment.

The BMW Z3 and M3 shift lever are often used for this upgrade.

The Z3 has a different lever in each model.

Z3 1.9L, Z3 2.3L, Z3 2.8L, Z3 3.2L (M).

I suggest the Z3 1.9L shift lever. 27% shorter shift throw and not notchy.

Many are mislead by the rumor to use the Z3 M shift lever.

M-Z3 shift lever is straight (P# 25-11-2-222-384) aka 384 lever,
Z3 1.9L is bent (P# 25-11-1-434-148) aka 148 lever.

The original E30 levers are all bent. Using the 384 will cause all lever positions to be farther forward
than before.
The 384 lever is longer below the levers fulcrum point (ball) when compared to the 148 lever.
The 148 lever is shorter above the levers fulcrum point (ball) when compared with the 384 lever.
The 384 lever results in a 25 percent shorter shift throw. Due to the length below the fulcrum point, it results in a notchy shift. I believe that this is due to the angle of attack into the transmission. Many have complained that it hits the driveshaft or counter weight bolt on ring. (many owners have left the counter weight ring off without an reported problems)

The 148 lever is 27 percent shorter shift throw. Notice that it is a tad shorter in throw when compared to the 384 lever AND it is is not notchy.

Parts needed for a upgrade:

JPG*	Qty	P#	Description	Sugg-Retail
[05]	1	25 11 1 434 148	Z3 1.9L shift lever	52.50
[07]	1	25 11 2 220 600	Nylon ball joint cup	11.15
[10]	2	25 11 1 220 439	Washers	0.84
[11]	1	25 11 1 220 379	Circlip 0.51
[02]	1	25 11 1 221 822	Carrier Bushing	5.24
[04]	1	25 11 1 221 569	shifter suspension bush	22.00

BMW sugg retail is $92.42

* JPG refers to diagram numbers on 143-sshiftz19.jpg

Here is a pic of the 148 shift lever:

http://www.unofficialbmw.com/images/shiftg4.gif

Easy way to shorten your shift lever throw an additional 6%.

http://www.unofficialbmw.com/images/shiftknobsshort.jpg

If you upgrade the lever to the 148 part# and the shorter shift knob, you will have shortened the shift lever throw by 33%.

Many Roundel advertisers will mail order parts for 20% off sugg retail.

NOTE: these parts are for suggested retail. The dealer does not have to charge that amount. One dealer near me charges sugg retail, another charges sugg retail + 50%.

Hardest part of the installation is removing the nylon ball joint cup. Consider studying p# 25 11 2 220 600 (Nylon ball joint cup), note the two small tabs that lock the cup into the aluminum arm. The tabs are ramped in one direction, a 90 deg clock wise rotation is 'all' that is needed.
BMW makes a special tool. Ron Stygar has engineered two versions. One from the top version and one from below version. I used his from the top tool for my third installation.
The first two times, I inserted two small screwdrivers to hold the cups locking tabs in the unlock position. I then used 3 more screwdrivers. 2 inserted into slots in the cup. Then holding those two together, insert the third between them to turn the cup 90 deg clockwise.
Also add a dab of grease to the cups locking tabs, this will help to disengage them.

Step by step instructions with pictures:
(as this is for an E36, you will need to ignore a few non-E30 details)

http://www.unofficialbmw.com/e36/drivetrain/e36lever.html

How Ron upgraded a Z3, it also discusses short shift theory:

http://www.mz3.net/articles/143.html

Recommendation for pre-6/86 E30's (sheet metal console)

Some of these owners have converted from the sheet metal console to the aluminum control arm design.

Some have short shifted their sheet metal console as follows:

Jamie_325i has an 6/86 (sheet metal console) E30 and is having problem with the selector rod rubbing on the driveshaft in 2nd gear.

Response from: ÜberEta:
Are you rubbing driveshaft or guibo? I had the same issue with my 85e sheetmetal console. I had to put a slight bend in the shift linkage to clear the guibo. this is a damn good trick with the linkage in position. since I found it almost impossible to take the linkage completely out with the sheetmetal console mounted to the trans the way it is, I disconnected the shift linkage at the shifter end and secured that now loose end to the driveshaft with a large "u" bolt. (seems like about a 3.5" - 4"). next I took a small hydraulic jack, set it up on some bricks so it would reach and push on the linkage, and cranked it till I put a very minor, probably < 1/8", bend in the linkage to clear the guibo.
Reattached everything and have had no problems.

Alan